Dog-related items I recommend
I don’t benefit from sales of these items in any way. These are just items I believe are worth recommending.
Click each category to jump down to its section.
A few toys that most dogs seem to enjoy.
Options that are much easier to clean than Kongs!
Edible and non-edible chews and bones.
Introduce some enrichment and/or variety.
10’ leashes, waist leashes, long lines, oh my!
Safety and prevention of unwanted behaviors.
Treat bags, poop holder for full poop bags, etc.
You may also be looking for these pages:
Toys
Not a definitive list of toys, just three options that I really like!
Bionic Toys, including the Bionic Ball and the Bionic Urban Stick. Super durable! Any dog who likes the consistency of rubbery toys that have some give should like these. (medium & large dogs)
The Treasure- it’s a non-edible bone. This toy was donated to us for a former foster dog, and to my ongoing shock, every dog in my home acts like they’ve found buried treasure when they encounter it! That’s why I call it “the treasure.”
Flirt Pole (Outward Hound Tail Teaser) - For dogs who like to chase things. [Note: This is something you do with your dog, not a toy they play with on their own!]
There are many flirt poles out there, but this is my favorite because it has an actual toy on the end. Many flirt poles just have tassels or a rope bone, which many dogs aren’t motivated to chase.
Chews & Bones
I ALWAYS supervise my dogs when they have edible chews and I take them when they get small enough to swallow. I strongly recommend you do the same.
Non-Edible Bones
Benebones - my personal fav
BetterBones - IMO intense chewers go through these way too fast, but it’s great for average chewers
Edible Chews
Beef Cheek Roll (rawhide alternative)
Bully sticks (with holder, see accessories)
Accessories
Most dogs: Woof bully stick holder
Dogs who destroy the Woof holder: Root Bully Stick Holder
Self-Occupy Items
These are items you can give your dog, some without supervision, to keep them occupied for a bit. Most double as enrichment!
Lick mats
These textured mats provide opportunities for licking, which is a self-soothing behavior. I use it to help dogs simmer down. Smear some fresh goodness in them, or freeze them for future use. Bonus: they’re very inexpensive!
Lick mats with suction cups (stick to floor or appliance, etc)
Lick mats for crates (hangs on side)
Pupsicle
The ball has a frozen ball of goodness inside. It’s more challenging than a lick mat, which introduces a problem-solving element (fun!). You can buy a mold to make refills, or buy pre-made refills.
Pupsicle by Woof
Power Chewer Pupsicle by Woof (HIGHLY recommended for dogs who destroy toys easily!)
Pre-made refills - search “pupsicle refills” and there are TONS of options (calming, birthday, GI health, etc)
Better than Kongs
Kongs aren’t bad, but they’re expensive, hard to clean, and some dogs find them too frustrating (and/or can chew off the top!). Here are some much better alternatives. Smear some fresh goodness in them, or freeze them for future use.
Fongs (Chew King) - “Fong” is my term for “fake Kong” and this is one my absolute favorite.
Cheaper Toppl option by Soda Pup (Beware: legendary toy destroyers can shred this easily)
Leashes & Long Lines
For specific harness recommendations and more information about why harnesses are the best option, visit my harness page.
Everyday Walking Leash: I recommend an 8-10’ biothane leash.
The ability for a dog to move naturally is extremely important for their health and wellbeing. Unfortunately, walking beside us at our pace for an extended duration is NOT how dogs naturally move through the world. That means a 6’ leash isn’t enough! A longer leash helps to solve this problem. It allows your dog to speed up and slow down, weave around more, stop and sniff for longer, etc.
Length: I prefer 10’, but even 8’ is a huge improvement. If you’re worried about your dog overpowering you, 8’ is probably a good starting point. Remember, you can always make a long leash shorter, but you can’t make a short leash longer.
Material matters: No rope! Rope leashes are super popular but wow are they rough on your hands. My favorite leash material by far is biothane. Gentler on the hands, easy to grip, and wipes clean.
Go hands-free? You may feel more secure with a hands-free leash (I certainly do). Knowing that you can drop the leash and not lose your dog frees up space in your brain to think about training protocols, and another free hand makes juggling all. the. things. so much easier. Just make sure your dog still has at least 6’ of leash in addition to your belt/strap! Many hands-free options take your dog’s leash down to 4’ or less—yikes. Here are two hands-free set ups to consider:
Leashes made to convert to hands-free: Biothane hands-free leashes by High Tail Hikes are my favorite.
Make your own hands-free attachment: Buy a relatively inexpensive hands-free leash with a detachable leash (like this one). The leash will be too short, but if you clip a carabiner to the waist belt, you now have a hands-free waist belt that can be used with any leash! This is what I do because I switch to different leashes depending on the dog and/or situation.
Where to get it: For a longer biothane leash, I strongly prefer High Tail Hikes and Collie and Corso because their leashes are extremely well made with high quality biothane and come in a variety of sizes and options.
Exploring/Hiking/Running Free: I recommend a 20-30’ biothane long line.
Dogs NEED to be able to run! Walks aren’t enough. For any dog who needs more movement and exploration in their life (dogs without a yard, young dogs, stressed out dogs, etc), the long line is gold. It can turn any open space into a fulfilling experience that meets your dog’s needs for natural movement and exploration. Personally, I prefer a 30’ biothane line but if you’re still learning how to handle a long line, you may feel more comfortable starting with 20’. You can get a high quality one from High Tail Hikes, or search Etsy for biothane long lines.
Management Items
These items can be used to prevent your dog from practicing unwanted behavior, or they can be used to keep your dogs calmer/safer. Just depends on the context!
Sound machine / noise machine - Use this to limit your dog’s exposure to noise, whether it’s noise in the house or noise outside. There are so many out there so feel free to shop around!
Window film - Use this to limit your dog’s view of triggers while preserving the natural light. These are a game changer! I’ve linked my favorite one but there are lots of aesthetic options out there (and they aren’t permanent).
Gates - If you have a home with multiple dogs and/or kids, you will need gates to separate spaces when you’re not able to supervise.
Gate/pen that folds and unfolds accordion style (often called an “x-pen”) - I’ve linked a really high quality one here, but there are cheaper and smaller options.
Doorway gate with door - Stop climbing over baby gates! There are many options for gates with doors.
Gear for You
Treat bags
YES, you need a treat bag! If you’re serious about training your dog, you should expect food to be necessary for a long time to come. You can repurpose a fanny pack, but avoid crossbody bags. The most important feature of a treat bag is access: using one hand, quickly, and on the move. This is why your treat bag needs a belt—if it’s clipped to something or swinging from something, you almost always need two hands, and that just doesn’t work. Here are two options I can vouch for:
Rapid Reward Pouch by Doggone Good - this is my primary bag
OllyDog Backcountry Day Bag - an odd name for a treat pouch, I know. I don’t have this one but many of my clients do, and I’m always tempted to get one!
Poop Bag for poop bags
Carrying a full poop bag sucks and takes up valuable space in your hands. The little loop holders are cute but a swinging bag is smelly and annoying. Make your life easier (and your walk more pleasant) by looping one of these bags onto the belt of your treat bag.
Pack Out Bag by Ruffwear(high quality)
Pick Up Dog Pouch by Kong (less expensive)
FAQs
More coming soon
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There are cases where chews like Benebones and traditional Nylabones have worn down a dog’s teeth. I’m not a vet, but my understanding is that this happens when dogs don’t have strong, healthy teeth and/or when they’re extreme chewers (they chew much more than the average dog).
While I know that chewing-related issues are possible, I haven’t personally met a dog who has experienced significant issues with chewing bones. That said, I have met tons of dogs whose quality of life has increased by chewing bones.
Perhaps it’s one of those things in life where the potential benefits outweigh the potential risks.
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Some dogs just aren’t big chewers and don’t like non-edible chews. Dogs in single-dog homes who haven’t shared toys with other dogs may need some encouragement to chew. Sometimes giving their non-edible chews to a friend’s dog for a few days does the trick.
When I encounter a dog who won’t chew edible chews, I’m suspicious of their oral health. I’d recommend checking in with your vet to see if there’s a reason why your dog might be uncomfortable chewing (broken tooth, misshapen teeth, etc).